The Apple Watch has long been one of the best fitness smartwatches, and over the past couple of years the native sports tracking has been improved significantly through watchOS 9 and 10 software updates. This means the Apple Watch Ultra 2 and Apple Watch Series 9 can be considered among the best sports watches. 

Even if you’ve owned one of the watches for a long time you may not have taken advantage of all the features. One of these is the pacer mode for runners. I’ve tested every model of the Apple Watch extensively, and pacer mode is something you’ll only have call to use on rare occasions, though it’s invaluable when you do. Those occasions are races, when the virtual pacer on your wrist can help you hit your target times and set new PRs.

Pacer mode is easy to set up. You hit the three dots on the right of the Outdoor Run sports mode in the Workout app (see image above) and scroll down to the pacer setting. Hit the little pen in the corner there and you can choose the distance and time you are planning on running.

Once that’s set up, you start the run by hitting start workout and are given a data screen that shows your current and average pace, and a dial that indicates how you are doing with your target time at that point.

I used pacer mode for a test run aiming for a 10K in 50 minutes. Throughout the run it’s easy to see how much time you have to make up to hit your goal, or how much time you have in the bank. Using this feature you can pace your races with precision, and it’s especially useful for ensuring you don’t go out too hard at the start of a long race. If you’re two miles into a marathon and see that you’re already tracking 45 seconds ahead of your overall time goal, then hopefully you’ll register that you need to ease off and settle into your actual race pace.

Pacer modes like these are not new features for sports watches and I’ve used the same mode on Garmin watches for years. Garmin’s mode is a little more developed and gives an estimate of your finish time that updates throughout the race based on your pace up until that point, and the distance left to go.

Whatever watch you use, I find that having a simple data screen like this is ideal for races, when you’re often focused on one thing: hitting that goal time. Just be aware that the mode will still be relying on GPS, so if the distance on your watch starts to fall out of line with the mile or kilometer markers on your course, you’ll have to do quick mental math to work out how far or ahead of your target time you are. 

Given that I’ve found the GPS on the Apple Watch Ultra 2 to be among the most accurate available this will probably only be a few seconds out from what the pacer mode is saying, but it’s worth being aware of—especially in built-up urban areas where tall buildings negatively affect GPS accuracy.

There are a lot of differences between the best running shoes and casual shoes, but one that may have puzzled you is why running shoes have two extra eyelets at the top.

These aren’t there just for fun, although they are undoubtedly fun – they are there to be used to tie a runner’s knot. This is also known as heel-lock lacing, which gives more of a clue as to the point of it. Speaking of which…

How To Tie A Runner’s Knot

When you first tie a runner’s knot you’ll probably pull it very tight – the idea is to secure the heel, after all – but this can create uncomfortable pressure on top of your foot from the laces. Don’t give up. It can take a few attempts to find the right balance between security and comfort.

The only other downside of the runner’s knot is that it can make a shoe harder to slip on and off, but buying a shoe horn is a small price to pay to avoid blisters on your heel.

Commuting by bike is one of the most convenient, quick and fun ways of getting to and from the office. Until you get a puncture. If you’ve been riding for long enough, there’s a good chance you’ll have encountered the dreaded moment when one of your tyres goes squishy and you find yourself Googling “how to fix a puncture with no puncture repair kit” by the side of the road.

If you’re in a city, you might be lucky enough to be close to a local bike shop that can get you back up and running in no time at all. But if you’re not, that straightforward journey to or from work becomes a nightmare where you have to somehow transport yourself and your bike to your destination.

It doesn’t have to be this way though. Using a combination of prevention, preparation and practice, you’ll be able to fix your next puncture in a matter of minutes, turning that flat tyre into a minor bump in the road.

How To Avoid Getting A Puncture

As the saying goes, prevention is better than cure, and there are a number of quick, easy strategies that can help to minimise your risk of getting a puncture in the first place.

First ensure that your tyres are inflated to the recommended pressure, which will be printed on your tyre. Using a pump with a gauge on it, inflate each tyre to somewhere within the recommended PSI (pounds per square inch) range. This will help minimise the risk of pinch punctures – when the inner tube gets trapped between the wheel’s rim and a hard, sharp edge like a pothole or dropping down from a curb. It’s worth checking your bike’s tyres once a week to ensure they are correctly inflated.

If you’re keeping your tyres inflated and still suffering from repeated punctures, it might be time to get some new tyres. After all, a worn, previously punctured tyre offers up a weaker defence than a shiny, new one.

How To Be Prepared For A Puncture

Even if you do keep your commuter bike’s tyres topped up and in a good condition, a small piece of glass, thorn or flint might manage to pierce through your tyre and puncture your inner tube.

Rather than accepting defeat and taking your bike to a shop to get fixed, it is possible to repair or replace a punctured inner tube in no time at all (more on which below). But first, you’ll need to have some tools at hand:

The quickest way to fix a flat tyre is to completely replace the inner tube with a new one. Stock up on the ones that match your bike’s wheel diameter (generally 700c for most commuter hybrid bikes) and your tyre’s width (again, this will be on the tyre and is generally shown in mm), and make sure to stuff a couple in your commuter backpack or pannier – you don’t want to be stuck if you get two punctures on your way to work, after all.

A more compact method than lugging around spare inner tubes is to pack a puncture repair kit in your commuter backpack. Patching an inner tube is more time-consuming than simply swapping it out for a new one – what with finding the puncture, repairing it and waiting for the glue to dry – but could be a more practical solution than carrying around multiple inner tubes.

This is an essential item that should be taken on all rides. Make sure it is compatible with the valve of your inner tube (Presta is the thin type common on most modern bikes, Schrader the wider type found on older or off-road bikes), and finding one with a gauge is a bonus.

Most modern bikes will feature a quick-release axle that allows you to remove and reinstall the wheel with no tools required – if there’s a little lever where the wheel is secured to the bike’s fork or frame, then it’s quick-release. Some single-speed or older hybrid bikes don’t have quick-release wheels, though, so you will need to carry a spanner; the most common size is 15mm, but check before buying.

These thin levers will help you get your tyre on and off. Two are better than one, and it’s worth looking out for a set that is plastic coated but reinforced with metal. The plastic will minimise any sharp points puncturing an inner tube, while the metal stops them snapping when confronted with a seriously tight tyre.

Not essential, but things can get greasy.

How To Fix A Puncture

The guide below assumes that you have a standard inner tube and wheel set-up. If you have a tubeless set-up, the below is still useful if the hole in your tyre is too big for the sealant to plug.

Step 1: Undo the quick-release skewer (or unscrew the axle’s bolts). If you have rim brakes, you might need to open the brake release lever. If the puncture is in the rear wheel, it’s a lot easier to remove the wheel if you change gear so the chain is on the smallest chainring at the front and smallest cog at the back. Remove the punctured wheel from the bike.

Step 2: Use the tyre levers to prise one side of the tyre off the wheel’s rim.

Step 3: Slide the punctured inner tube out from the rim and remove it completely. To do this you will need to remove the dust cap and unscrew the nut that holds it in place, then push the valve up and through the hole in the rim.

Step 4: Run your hand carefully around the inside of the tyre to check for any sharp objects that might have caused the puncture. Remove anything sharp that you find.

(If replacing the punctured inner tube with a new one, skip to step 6)

Step 5: Find the hole in the punctured inner tube. The easiest way is to inflate it slightly before squeezing it and popping it in a bucket of water and looking for bubbles, but unless you’re commuting to your job as a window cleaner that’s not much help mid-journey. Try squeezing the inflated inner tube and pass it past your ear – the sound of air escaping should help you locate the hole. Follow the instructions on the puncture repair kit to patch the hole.

Step 6: Slightly inflate the repaired inner tube, insert its valve into the hole in the rim and slide the inner tube into the rim bed.

Step 7: This is the tricky bit. With the valve at its furthest point from you, use your tyre levers to lever the bead (the edge of the tyre) back onto the inside of the rim. Work your way around the tyre until it’s back on. If you’re left with a stubborn part that just won’t go on, try pushing the valve up into the rim. This will hopefully give you more room to work with and make it easier to ease the tyre back on.

Step 8: Check that there aren’t any parts of the inner tube trapped between the bead and the rim and inflate slightly. If there are any bulges, your inner tube is trapped, so it may need a bit of massaging to get it sitting correctly.

Step 9: Once clear, you’re all set to inflate the tyre using your pump to the recommended pressure shown on the tyre. Pop the nut and dust cap on the valve, reattach your wheel, check your brakes and off you roll.

It’s rare to walk into a gym and not see someone performing a squat, and with good reason – it’s one of the best exercises you can do, working pretty much every part of your lower body.

Your quads, glutes, calves, hamstrings and a host of smaller stabilising muscles are worked when you squat. It’s also good for your core strength and cardiovascular fitness, because powering through a set of squats always gets the heart pumping.

Most people start with an unweighted squat, which is a terrific bodyweight exercise that’s easy to do anywhere. In the gym the barbell squat is perhaps the other squat you’re most likely to see. There’s no doubt that the barbell squat is a fantastic leg exercise, but it can be an intimidating progression to go straight from bodyweight to barbell, especially in packed gyms where you may have to queue for the squat rack and then exercise while being observed.

The dumbbell squat is a great alternative for those who want to do weighted squats but aren’t sure about using a barbell yet. It’s hard to lift as much weight with dumbbells as with the barbell, but you can certainly still challenge your lower body, and make big strength and size gains with the exercise.

How To Do The Dumbbell Squat

The basics of the dumbbell squat are simple: you perform a squat while holding a dumbbell or dumbbells. If you’re just using one weight it’s best to hold it in both hands in front of your chest, a variation known as a goblet squat.

If you’re using two dumbbells the simplest way to hold them is at your sides, but you can also rack the weights by holding them by your shoulders with your elbows pointing forwards.

Once you have your dumbbells in position, lower into a squat by imagining you’re sitting back into an invisible chair, pushing your hips back and bending your knees. Lower until your thighs are at least parallel to the ground, then drive through your heels to come back up to standing. Keep your chest up throughout the move and don’t let your knees cave inwards – you can loop a small resistance band around your legs and hold it taut to ensure your knees aren’t moving in.

The standard deadlift and Romanian deadlift are superb leg exercises that build strength along the full length of your posterior chain, from your hamstrings and glutes to your lower back. But once these moves are perfected, it’s worth layering on a single-leg variation to develop your lower-body strength in a more functional, sports-specific way. 

Step forward the single-leg Romanian deadlift (or single-leg RDL for short). Whether performed with just your bodyweight or loaded with a dumbbell, kettlebell or barbell, it’s a challenging, technical exercise that will boost your coordination and balance, while evening out any imbalances of strength between your left and right side.

To drill down into all the dos and don’ts of this tricky exercise, and provide regressions and progressions to suit all levels, we spoke to Waz Ashayer, trainer at fitness app Fiit and group fitness manager at Equinox, NYC. 

How To Do The Single-Leg Romanian Deadlift

Here we will describe how to do the exercise with a barbell, but it can also be done with a dumbbell or kettlebell in each hand or just one, or without any weight at all. It’s certainly worth trying the bodyweight version first to get used to the movement and improve your balance. Doing the move with just your bodyweight is also ideal as a warm-up to prime the muscles before adding weight. Of course, whichever type of free weight you end up using, you’ll want to use far less weight than you would lift in the standard deadlift or Romanian deadlift when you have both legs planted on the ground.

Common Single-Leg Romanian Deadlift Mistakes

Due to its complexity, the single-leg RDL can be a tricky move to get right. Here are some of the most common mistakes Ashayer sees creeping in for both novices and experienced gym-goers. 

Rotating Your Hips

Losing your balance is a telltale sign that the hips have shifted out of position and your bodyweight is lopsided. Ashayer has three easy fixes. 

First, practice this exercise in a B-stance stance, with the toe of your back foot in contact with the floor throughout—also known as a kickstand RDL, a variation that’s detailed below. 

Second, perform as in the form guide above but hold onto a support, like a low bench. 

Third, lower or ditch the weight and focus on keeping your core rigid to solidify your stability.  

Holding Your Neck In An Unnatural Position 

Craning your neck to look forward is another common error that can afflict all deadlift practitioners, likely to keep an eye on their form in the weights room mirror. Rather than looking forward throughout, keep your neck neutral, allowing your gaze to track with your movement. If you must check your form, record a few reps with your phone and watch it back to see where you can improve.

Rounding Your Back 

“If you’re unfamiliar with the technique required to load a deadlift through the hips and posterior chain, a common side effect is a rounding of the spine,” says Ashayer. This puts undue pressure on the lower back and negates the focus of the move. To fix this, he says, remember to keep your back locked in position from your hips to your shoulders, pivoting only from the hips. 

Single-Leg Romanian Deadlift Variations, Progressions And Regressions

Few exercises will mimic the unilateral demands of the single-leg RDL, but if you find this version altogether too challenging, even when using just your bodyweight, Ashayer recommends two things. 

Work on your bilateral posterior chain strength with the regular Romanian deadlift, and unilateral glute and hamstring strength with the kickstand RDL, single-leg glute bridge or single-leg gym ball hamstring curl. Once you’re ready to step it up a notch, a staggered stance kettlebell swing or snatch are his go-to progressions to train power and speed in the same movement. 

Romanian deadlift  

Stand with your feet hip-width apart, holding a barbell in front of you with your hands shoulder-width apart. Keeping your back straight throughout, move your shoulder blades back and down, take a deep breath to brace your core, then sit your hips back to lower the bar down your thighs to just above or below your knees, depending on your flexibility. You should feel a deep stretch in your hamstrings at this point. Pause, then press the floor away and drive your hips forward as you exhale to stand tall. Pause, squeeze your glutes hard, then repeat. 

Kickstand Romanian deadlift 

Adopt an off-set stance by stepping one foot slightly behind the other, keeping your front foot flat on the floor and your rear foot on its toes. Your weight should be in your front leg. Maintain a slight bend in your front knee, holding a dumbbell or kettlebell in the hand on the opposite side to your leading leg, then push your hips back to lower the weight. Perform all the reps on one side, then switch sides. 

Single-leg glute bridge

Lie on your back with one knee bent and foot flat on the floor, and the other leg straight, raised off the floor, with your knees aligned. Press your lower back into the floor, then drive your hips up as high as you can, squeezing your glutes hard. Pause, then lower to tap the floor and repeat. Perform all the reps on one side, then switch sides. This move can also be performed with your feet elevated on a low box or bench for a greater challenge. 

Single-leg gym ball hamstring curl

Lie on your back with your arms resting on the floor at the sides and your knees bent and heels resting on top of a gym ball. Lift your hips off the floor so your weight is supported by the ball and your upper back. Extend your legs to roll the ball away from you, then lift one heel off the ball, keeping that leg extended while you bend the knee of your other leg to roll the gym ball towards you. You should feel this targeting the hamstring of your bent leg. Extend your leg fully, rolling the gym ball away while keeping the other leg elevated, and repeat.Perform all the reps on one side, then switch sides.

Staggered stance snatch 

Adopt an off-set stance by stepping one foot slightly behind the other, keeping your front foot flat on the floor and your rear foot on its toes. Your weight should be in your front leg. Maintain a slight bend in your front knee, holding a dumbbell or kettlebell in the hand on the opposite side to your leading leg. Push your hips back to lower the weight, then drive your hips forward with power to generate momentum to begin lift the weight. As the weight passes your hips shrug the weight up and as it passes your shoulder punch the weight straight up and extend your arm overhead. Carefully return the weight to the start and repeat. Perform all reps on one side, then switch. 

About Our Expert

There’s a particular type of exercise you should rely on to build a stronger back: rows. Fortunately, there’s no shortage of variations of this fundamental back exercise. 

The king of rows is the bent-over barbell row and it fully deserves its preeminent status thanks to the massive back-boosting benefits it provides. However, you could argue that the one-arm dumbbell row is even better for your back. That’s because using one arm at a time allows you to focus your efforts on the lats, rhomboids and other back muscles called upon by this pull exercise.

Using dumbbells instead of a barbell also prevents you from relying on one side of your body to do the bulk of the work, and can highlight any strength imbalances that you need to work on. The one-arm row also allows for a greater range of motion than the barbell bent-over row, enabling you to target more accessory muscles around the scapula. 

To help you master this move, we spoke to experienced strength and conditioning coach and sports scientist Ryan Horton of Horton Barbell. Read on for an expert guide on how to perfect your one-arm dumbbell row form, along with its chief benefits and the common pitfalls to avoid. 

How To Do The One-Arm Dumbbell Row

Common Form Mistakes

The one-arm row is not a complex exercise, so don’t overcomplicate it. “Assume a solid base, keep your core tight, grab a dumbbell and row. If you follow that instruction, 95% of the time it’s going to be spot-on,” says Horton. That said, there are a few common mistakes that can creep in and undermine your progress. 

1. Starting Wrong

Rounding your back and positioning your feet too close to your center of gravity is a typical error Horton sees all too often. “If your set-up position is garbage—your back is rounded, your feet are too close together—you’re going to be all hunched up and off-balance,” he says. 

Instead, focus on setting up with a solid platform. “Remember to maintain a wide base with your feet, a flat back, a tight core and keep everything square. Get that right and the row, for the most part, will take care of itself.”

2. Flaring Your Elbows

Another common mistake is to flare your elbows out to the side when performing a one-arm dumbbell row. Instead, keep your elbow tucked into your body.

“If you get into a proper set-up position, keep your elbow tight to your body and use a weight that’s heavy enough to be challenging, then when you row towards the top of your stomach you’re naturally going to use the correct range of motion,” says Horton. 

3. Twisting Your Torso

The final pitfall is overly rotating or twisting your upper back at the top of each rep and shifting the focus of the exercise away from the target muscle groups. 

“You’re not starting a lawnmower,” says Horton. “Don’t twist your torso and turn as you row. Keep everything tight and your back flat to work the right muscle the right way.”

Benefits Of The One-Arm Dumbbell Row

Legend has it that we have restless Ethiopian goats to thank for coffee. As the story goes, a goat herder called Kaldi spotted a link between his goats eating berries from a certain tree and being too energetic to sleep at night, so he investigated the berries himself. From there, word of coffee’s magical taste and energising qualities spread first to the Arabian peninsula and then eventually to Europe in the 17th century.

Coffee is now everywhere and the health benefits of drinking it evidently extend well beyond an extra jolt of energy. You can expect to enjoy those benefits whichever method you use to make your morning cup, but how you brew it does result in big changes to coffee’s flavour and strength.

We’ve explained the most popular methods of making coffee below, but before we get into specifics, let’s go over some basics with Simon Lewthwaite of specialist coffee company Caravan Coffee Roasters.

What are the different methods of making coffee?

There are three principles that underpin every method of making coffee – immersion, pressure or drip.

“Immersion is the soaking of coffee in hot or cold water for a period of time,” says Lewthwaite. “The intensity or flavour is altered by changing the dose [amount] of coffee used, the length of time you immerse it for and also the coarseness of the grind on the coffee. Once immersion is complete, you remove the coffee from the liquid and serve.”

“Pressure is when force is applied to the coffee. The highest being espresso at 9bar or so, and then down to AeroPress which varies based on how hard you press the coffee through the filter. An AeroPress actually combines both immersion for the brewing part and pressure for the press part.”

“Drip methods include your basic filter pot or American diner-style brewed coffee, Chemex, V60 and Kalita. This method uses gravity to pass the water through coffee grounds. The flavour is altered mostly by changing the dose of coffee and its grind consistency. A fine grind takes longer to filter through and is more intense in flavour, and a coarse grind takes a shorter time, with much less body produced.”

What is the best water temperature to brew coffee with?

If you’re boiling a kettle and splashing it straight into a cafetière, you’re doing coffee wrong.

“Generally around 92-94°C, but at times I brew with an AeroPress at home using 84-85°C water,” says Lewthwaite.

“The hotter the water, the faster and more intense the transfusion of flavour will be. Too hot can create a unpleasant cup; too cold, and the coffee will not react with the water and there will be less flavour or intensity in the resulting cup.”

Do different styles of making coffee require different grinds?

If you purchase your coffee from a specialist establishment like Caravan, you can often ask for the beans to be ground to the appropriate coarseness for your preferred method of coffee making.

“Generally, the shorter the drink, the finer the grind,” says Lewthwaite.

“You’re creating an intense flavour in a much shorter time. Whereas when you are making a large batch filter, the grind will be a lot coarser because it will be in contact with water for a much longer time.”

What are the pros and cons to different styles of coffee making?

“There are no cons when you make it well!” says Lewthwaite.

So to avoid doing it wrong, here are Lewthwaite’s six essential factors for brewing coffee, whatever your favourite method is.

1. Quality coffee
2. Clean water
3. Freshly ground coffee
4. Water-to-coffee ratio (you can’t go wrong with 60g/1,000ml)
5. Appropriate brewing method for the coffee and grind
6. Appropriate filtration method – the right thickness and style of filter

Got all that? Good, then let’s look into each of the five main methods of brewing coffee more closely.

Cafetière

The classic immersion method – no home is complete without a cafetière (also known as the French press) in the kitchen cupboard.

“You want a coarse grind of coffee, brew for four minutes with 90°C water (boil the kettle then let it sit for two minutes before pouring),” says Lewthwaite. “Use 60g of coffee per litre of water. After four minutes, decant the coffee into another vessel to stop the brewing process.”

The Best Cafetière: Bodum Chambord

When it comes to the French press, you really can’t go wrong with Bodum. The classic Chambord cafetière is simple, stylish and fit for all your immersion coffee needs. RRP £39 (1 litre model), check price and buy on amazon.co.uk

Drip Filter Machine

An office staple, filter coffee gets a bad rap generally because people don’t take enough care when making it. Not to mention the fact many colleagues “forget” to refill the jug when they finish it.

“Use a coarse grind and the appropriate paper filter,” says Lewthwaite. “Check the volume of water the machine will hold and adjust your coffee dose to that, keeping to 60g per litre.”

The Best Drip Filter Machine: Ninja Coffee Bar

A raft of customisable features – including two strength settings, four size of brew options, and a timer that allows you to wake up to freshly brewed coffee – set this machine apart from the drip filter pack. RRP £180, check price and buy on amazon.co.uk

Espresso Machine

You can spend a lot of time perfecting your espresso with a proper machine. It’s one of the best ways to pass a lazy Sunday, in fact… Or you can use this cheat sheet.

“Use a 2:1 ratio of water to coffee. If your dose is 16g, then you can expect a good extraction at around 32g of coffee – note not 32ml,” says Lewthwaite. “You’re looking to balance three things: sweetness, bitterness and acidity.”

The Best Espresso Machine: De’Longhi Scultura

An easy-to-use and stylish machine that consistently produces impressive espresso shots, the Scultura is a great pick at an affordable price. RRP £200, check price and buy on amazon.co.uk

AeroPress

The (relatively) new kid on the block, the AeroPress is beloved by coffee obsessives worldwide for its ability to create smooth, strong coffee anywhere you take it.

Here’s Caravan Coffee Roasters’ precise step-by-step guide to using the AeroPress.

• Put a filter into the AeroPress screw cap, then attach it to the AeroPress and pour boiling water through it (this removes any slight paper taste).
• Add 16g of medium-grind coffee (consistency of table salt). If you really want to be exact, you can now place the whole set-up on a set of scales, then tare/zero them ready to put in the perfect amount of water.
• Pour in 250g of water (ideal temperature is 91-94°C), quickly stir the mixture and pop the AeroPress plunger into the tube – it needs to create a vacuum seal to stop water leaking through the filter.
• After 1min 15sec, start pressing the plunger down to push the coffee through into a mug. This should take 30sec, for a total brew time of 1min 45sec.

The One And Only AeroPress: Aerobie AeroPress

No options here, there’s only one AeroPress on the market, so instead a fun fact; Aerobie only makes two things – the AeroPress and frisbees. A masterclass in diversification, that. RRP £30, check price and buy on amazon.co.uk

Stove-Top Espresso

Another pressure method to make coffee, but with a stove-top espresso maker water is forced upwards through the coffee. Here’s Lewthwaite’s step-by-step guide to nailing stove-top coffee.

1. “Fill the base to just below the valve with filtered water.”
2. “Fill the coffee reservoir with a fine grind (close to espresso) and pack it in with the back of a spoon.”
3. “Place on the stove top, but only on medium or just under medium heat. This will take longer, but it’ll stop the water boiling and burning the coffee inside.”
4. “Keep a close eye on the brewing coffee. Once it starts extracting through into the top, do not let it spray and spit through. Instead reduce the temperature to allow it to flow nicely.”
5. “As soon as the colour of the coffee becomes lighter, wrap a cold wet cloth around the base. This will stop the extraction and take away the risk of overbrewing. This bit is hard to master, but it’s super obvious when you nail it!”

The Best Stove-Top Espresso Maker: Bialetti Moka Express

As Bodum is to cafetières, Bialetti is to stove-top espresso makers. The original Moka Express model was created in 1933 and millions have used it to make perfect coffee since. RRP £35 (six cup model), check price and buy on amazon.co.uk